Monday, June 30, 2008
Summer nights are for drinking
Slate (54 W. 21st St.): Slate has a really nice set-up and is HUGE inside. There is an area with pool tables, a DJ with dancing in the back, a bar area over to one side, and a bottom floor I didn't even get to. Slate would be awesome if the crowd were right. The night we were there, the crowd was definitely not right. I'd return, though, with a loud and raucous group of friends, just to make things interesting.
Porky's (55 W. 21st St.):...So, we left Slate and went across the street to Porky's. There's one word to describe this place: shitshow. We arrived around 11PM and there was ALREADY some guy slumped over puking on himself in the gutter in front of the bar. Um, 11PM. Inside, there was incredibly loud music, Cowboy Ugly bartenders dancing on the bar and pouring shots into people's mouths, drunk people groping each other everywhere, and people toting the signature fishbowl drinks (intensely sugary punches that taste like lemonade but make you drunk, served in fishbowls). My favorite part of Porky's was that every now and then a shower of confetti would rain down from the ceiling, so there was confetti everywhere. If you think I didn't spend most of my time running around throwing handfuls of confetti into the air, you're wrong.
Branch (226 E. 54th St.): Meh. Branch is a little bit cooler than thou, despite being located far, far away from the Meatpacking District. They charge you a pretty stiff cover at the velvet rope, and when I went up to the bar and asked for a glass of water, they put a $4 tiny bottle of Voss water on the bar and expected me to pay (when I countered with "Uh, tap water, please," the bartender looked both puzzled and disgusted, if that's even possible). The bathrooms have attendants, but they actually charge you for all the usually-free bathroom-attendant goodies (i.e., for all the dudes out there, these include spritzes of perfume, small candies, band-aids and such). There was a dance floor, but when I was there it was populated by almost 100% women, including a silly-looking bachelorette party. And, at the very real risk of sounding like a 60-year-old dad, the music was just too loud. Next.
The Volstead (125 E. 54th St.): On the way back from Branch, I stopped into The Volstead. It's a relatively small but very cool space, and it was packed with good looking people. There was an awesome soundtrack playing and it looked as though people were gearing up to dance, always a good sign. Volstead was certainly the winner of that evening.
Public House (140 E. 41st St.): I was at Public House on a Friday night for a fundraiser, and it was quite the happening joint. There's a huge bar that wraps around two sides of the enormous space, and there's a small second floor/balcony area that overlooks the floor below. Public House was absolutely packed, mostly with guys, which was good for a single girl like me. But I will say one thing: this place was HOT. And not "hot" in the "hott" sense, but hot in the oh-man-I'm-sweating-through-my-clothes sense. This comes from a girl who has only been uncomfortably hot perhaps two or three times in her life, so if you're prone to getting overheated (see also: my brother), Public House may not be for you.
Professor Thom's (219 2nd Ave): Best known for being a Boston sports bar in the East Village, Professor Thom's also has a much swankier upstairs called the Thom's Loft. It was pretty standard-- loud music, people milling about-- but the real hit of Thom's Loft is its balcony, which looks out onto 2nd Avenue. Chilling on the balcony with friends was a pretty cool experience.
So there you have it. I also made it to Terroir, a new wine bar, this past weekend, but that will be the subject of a separate post. Happy drinking to all!
Sunday, June 29, 2008
A vegetarian foray into Counter
I had been to Counter once before, several years ago, right after it opened. There had been an article in the New York Times spotlighting the new restaurant because of its owners' garden, in which they grew a lot of the produce used in the restaurant, as I recall. We had gone to Counter for brunch, and it was clear they were still working out the kinks-- while the food was good, the service left a whole lot to be desired. But I figured I'd give it another chance, so this past weekend, many years later, I was back.
I arrived before SB and took a seat at the bar. Counter is a low-key but nice-looking restaurant, and the focal point is definitely the bar: a large semicircle surrounding a tower with wine bottles protruding around its circumference. As I sat for a few moments, the bartender served one of their signature cocktails, the Flaming Queen, which came with a garnish of mint that the bartender had set on fire. Cool.
SB arrived and we were led past the bar into the dining room. We sat at a two-top with me in the banquette along the wall. The table itself was diner-style, with a retro metal rim... I only noticed that because it was somewhat incongruous with the rest of the relatively haute decor. We studied the menu, which came spiral-bound in a leatherette cover. Counter notes which of its dishes are completely raw and which have cheese, so all different types of vegetarians and vegans can feel comfortable making a choice without wondering what's in the dish. It didn't take us long to make our decisions, and the waiter came over promptly to take our order.
Soon, SB's appetizer arrived. She had ordered the hummus, and it certainly was a pretty plate. It was a very generous ring of hummus circling two bright sauces and some olive oil, with points of what the menu called "flatbread" (and actually were very puffy almost foccaccia-like triangles) circling the edge of the plate. I tried a taste of the hummus and the sauces but skipped the bread. The hummus was very highly seasoned and quite smoky (possibly smoked paprika in action), but it mellowed into a satisfying aftertaste. I couldn't quite tell what the sauces were-- the green stuff looked like guacamole but strangely tasted just like the hummus, and the red sauce was spicy. It was an interesting plate of food; definitely not your traditional hummus, but an intriguing flavor and a good-sized portion.



Counter
105 1st Avenue, between 6th and 7th Streets
212-982-5870
Classing Up South Street at the New Amsterdam Market
And what a sitch it was-- to put it simply, the New Amsterdam Market ROCKED. They're trying to make it a permanent, indoor, year-round market in the old Fish Market building, and good lord I hope they succeed. The Market was just a hyper-crowded frenzy of food and people, with good things being sold and consumed left and right. Sure, it was a little ghetto, with the hastily-assembled stalls crouching under a dingy underpass, but the sheer food joy that exuded from the rows of vendors more than made up for any atmospheric lapses. Below is a photo tour of the Market, in hopes that when it next comes around you'll be inspired to pay a visit.
Saturday, June 28, 2008
NYC Icy, chapter IV
I can try to comfort myself by saying that this time, I was there for the sorbet, not the cream icies. And, you know, it IS hot as balls outside, so who can blame a girl for wanting a little sorbet to cool her down? My wallet, that's who. Damn.
I came in with a pretty potent coconut icy craving, but I was willing to keep an open mind. I tried a taste of the mango and passionfruit icies to see if my taste buds could be swayed. The mango icy was much, much more mild than mango sorbet usually is-- I think of mango sorbet as one of the most potent sources of straight-to-the-bloodstream sugar out there, aside from, say, cotton candy. Or an IV. The passionfruit had a bit of a stronger flavor, with that trademark passionfruit kick. Another day, the passionfruit will likely be my quarry, but today, I was all about the coconut.
The coconut has a soothing, genuine coconut flavor, and as I mentioned before, there are little bits of real coconut providing mouthfeel interest. The texture of the icy is really interesting-- it's certainly icier than the cream icy, and as a result it has more structural integrity and doesn't melt as fast. But as it begins to soften around the edges, it develops that almost stretchy, stringy consistency that marks the cream icies. Stringy ice cream sort of sounds gross, but it's not-- it's really satisfying to eat. With the icies, I'd recommend you let it begin to melt a teensy bit before shoveling it down-- it definitely adds an extra something.
The coconut was incredibly delicious and hit the proverbial "spot" hard. And it's worth noting that every time I go, I'm always amazed by how much they pack into those little cups. You certainly get your money's worth (in the case of the icies, only $2.50).
But that won't stop me from being fat and broke by the end of the summer. Anyone have a couch I can crash on when I can no longer pay my rent?
NYC Icy, chapter III
The vanilla chip was north-of-standard vanilla with chocolate chunks. NYC Icy deserves a lot of respect for serving actual, large chunks of chocolate in its ice cream-- none of these lame shards of chocolate you might find elsewhere. If you're craving chocolate chip ice cream, this flavor is your bag.
I went for a small cup of the honey vanilla. It tasted much more of vanilla than honey, definitely not a knock-you-over honey flavor of the type you might see in regular ice creams (see my post on Craftbar for more on that). Rather, it was more of a subtle, not-quite-vanilla flavor-- very mild and subtle, as the man behind the counter pointed out. Plus, it had the signature NYC Icy texture, sort of in between hard ice cream and soft serve, melty and frothy and almost stringy.
Mmmmm.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
NYC Icy, chapter II
But my second sample, and the ultimate winner, was the white chocolate creamy icy. It tasted like uber-vanilla, sumptuously creamy and mild. But the greatest part of this white delight was that it was studded with white chocolate chips-- an awesome bonus that boosted the incredible flavor. Genius!
Monday, June 23, 2008
Beat helmets and birthday revelry at Madison Bar & Grill
Madison Bar and Grill is the kind of nice-but-not-too-nice, easygoing American bistro of which there are too few in Manhattan. The decor was anonymous, the service was friendly, and you felt instantly at home once you walked in the door. We were seated at a round table in the corner, and since the crowd was quite sparse throughout the evening (and we ate on the earlier side), we felt as though we had the place almost to ourselves.
Our server let us take as long as we wanted with our meal. She gave us quite a while to select drinks, and Mr. J took the reins in selecting a bottle of red and a bottle of white wine. We looked over the menus as the wine service began; I chose the white, as is my custom. It was a yummy Chardonnay, not too oaky and heavy, with a good flavor and solid acidity.
With the wine came the bread basket. Ooooh man, I will say this: Madison does its diners right by its bread basket. It's a paper cone of pizza-like foccacia. Each small square has a savory, tomato-sauce-and-basil top and an oily, crunchy bottom, with a light and airy interior separating the two. While this bread needed no accompaniment, it was brought to the table with a small condiment tray holding olive oil (which I didn't try) and a dish of lemon ricotta. This ricotta was spectacular-- truly fresh and homemade-tasting. I could have eaten the entire little trough of cheese with a spoon. Or, you know, my fingers.
With our wine and our bread slowly disappearing, we were ready to order. We ordered a few appetizers for the table, and the waitress disappeared (leaving us still with our menus, yet to order our mains... perhaps there is such a thing as TOO leisurely an ordering pace). She returned after a few minutes, though, and finally we placed our orders.
Shortly, our appetizers arrived. J had ordered one plate of spinach-artichoke dip and two orders of lobster spring rolls, upon our waitress's advice. The spring rolls came four sizeable rolls to an order, arrayed around a small dish of orange-colored sauce. Since these were crustacean through-and-through, I refrained from trying one, but they disappeared agreeably with the help of my dining companions.
The spinach-artichoke dip was a large bowl of creamy, bubbly cheese mixture surrounded by a generous scattering of toasted bread rounds. I tried a few forkfuls of the dip, and it was extremely creamy. In fact, I found the dominant flavor to be cream, not even really cheese. All in all it was a bit too heavy for me, but my few tastes were certainly satisfying, and the growing boys around the table certainly enjoyed the app.
As we slowed down on the appetizer course, the wine kept flowing and the conversation picked up. The dishes were cleared and we waited for a bit before our entrees arrived. Soon enough, though, the plates descended upon our table and we were off and running.
B had ordered the paella. It was a large bowl of saffron-colored rice studded with clams and other forms of seafood and little rounds of chorizo. While many restaurants would go heavy on the rice and easy on the seafood here, Madison packed its paella with admirably large chunks of high-class fish like lobster. B thoroughly enjoy this dish, and it was so large that he took much of it home for a day-after meal (in an adorable little take-out bag, I might add).
At this point we were all approaching food-coma status. Mrs. J had baked J a cake for his birthday, which awaited at his apartment, so we skipped dessert (somewhat mercifully, as I'm not sure any of us was up for a huge dessert binge at that point). Note to my own mother: if you're reading this, my birthday is coming up. I like cake. That is all.
We talked happily for a while longer as Mr. J incredibly generously took care of the bill. Soon, we all waddled happily out into the no-longer-stifling early evening. I can honestly say that this was one of the most enjoyable dinners I've had in a long, long time. The food was great; the atmosphere was comfortable and inviting; and, above all, the company was top, top notch. I feel lucky that J and his delightful parents allowed me to join in their birthday festivities-- it was certainly an evening I will remember for a while. As for the restaurant... here's where I truly wish I had half-spatulas, as Madison is clearly a four-and-a-half Offset Spatula place. The only thing between it and a five-spatula rating is, really, its location in Hoboken, so the likelihood that I'll go back is fairly slim. So, as it is, I'll award Madison Bar & Grill a four-OS rating, with a note that this is definitely a high-four-OS.
Oh, and as for that vocabulary lesson: the phrase "beat helmet" now has a prominent place in my lexicon. To use it in a sentence, in hopes that you faithful readers will aid J, B, the bro and me in bringing it back into fashion: "That girl has a beat helmet"-- i.e., "that girl was beaten by an ugly stick." Please, for the good of humanity, use at will.




Madison Bar & Grill
201-386-0300
1316 Washington Street
Hoboken, NJ
Sunday, June 22, 2008
The Art of Food at Craftbar
Craftbar, located on Broadway just south of the Flatiron building, is a beautiful restaurant. It's spacious, with a lot of room between tables. The walls are adorned with semi-ridiculous photos of food and cooking implements (a whisk; a sliced mushroom), and the ceiling is cris-crossed with a catwalk giving access to wine storage. The soundtrack was relatively loud but played a highly enjoyable selection of present and past pop hits, delighting our crowd.
We settled into our large table and perused the menu. I ordered the wine, a Conte Lapardi Sauvignon Blanc (as usual), which was delicious. It had a lively, acidic taste and was served at the absolute perfect temperature in lovely glassware. My only complaint with the wine list (and, frankly, with Craftbar overall) is that it skewed quite expensive. I could count the number of bottles under $50 on one hand, making it a relatively unfriendly wine experience to those on a budget.
As we all decided what to order, I munched a breadstick from the canister in the center of the table. Now, as you know, the bread course is very important to me, and I must say I think Craftbar dropped the ball here. The breadstick was extremely crunchy and crumbly (almost hard), and it had a slightly cheesy, salty flavor with a touch of rosemary. Personally, I don't like breadsticks very much, so I didn't enjoy this and really shouldn't have eaten the whole thing. All the more disappointing, as you'll see shortly, is that our appetizers came with delicious-looking peasant bread, which I truly wish they had served as a bread basket.
We placed our order and chatted contentedly, pausing to remark on the occasional song selection (all KT Tunstull, all the time). Soon, our apps arrived. We had ordered the pecorino fondue with acacia honey, hazelnuts, and pepperoncini. Our waitress, Devin, suggested that we order two for the table, and she was definitely right-- the portions were certainly not large (a recurring theme at Craftbar).
The fondue arrived as a small bowl of melted, savory cheese accompanied by two small slices of lovely bread per order. The cheese had a lovely crackly crust around the edges and a large number of hazelnuts submerged within. The cheese was incredible-- salty and flavorful, with a slight sweetness from the honey and a definite heat from the pepperoncini. The caramelized crusty bits left over around the edges were absolutely irresistible.
The bro vacillated painfully between the cavatelli bolognese and the dry aged sirloin, but in the end he went with the sirloin. It came on a bed of smoky wild mushrooms and had a few cubes of crispy potatoes scattered around (Craftbar seems to be a fan of cubing vegetables and fruits, huh?). The beef was delicately medium-rare, and the bro thoroughly enjoyed it-- his only complaint, a recurring refrain throughout the evening, was that he wished there were about two or three times as much on the plate (although by the time the dessert course rolled around, he was full). I was lucky enough to have his leftover mushrooms, and they were certainly smoky but also tender and delicious.




Craftbar
900 Broadway
Between 19th and 20th Streets
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Pass by this Nook
We were seated immediately, which I appreciate in the cut-throat market that is the Manhattan brunch scene. The place is tiny, smaller than most studio apartments. There are only ten tables or so, if that, and the tables are packed in tightly (at one point I made the mistake of moving my elbow and elbowed the woman sitting behind me. We both apologized, for no apparent reason). You could see partially into the open kitchen in the back, where the chef was hastily plating the usual breakfast favorites. And-- this will become very important shortly-- there was one combination waiter/host/busboy/barista working the entire dining room. One.
We sat and chatted and waited a little while for our menus to arrive. And then we waited for a little while longer for our orders to be taken. The waiter brought over a small basket of bread, which we dove into. The crust was crackly but not too hard, and the interior was delightfully stretchy and chewy. The butter was high-quality, as well-- sweet cream with a fresh flavor.
Once we had packed away the bread, our dishes arrived. SSOE had ordered the apple pancakes, which came with a side of berry compote of some sort (he guessed there might be some rhubarb in there). The whole thing came buried under a squall of powdered sugar. SSOE enjoyed the pancakes, and with three medium-sized cakes for a $7.50 price tag, the price was right. But he didn't enjoy his cafe au lait-- which, although ordered with the pancakes, never came. More on that later as well...
It was at this point in the meal, once we had finished our food, that things began to degenerate service-wise. First: the water situation. Nook serves water in cute glass bottles left on the table; we rushed through ours shortly after we arrived, and no more water was forthcoming, so by the end of my salad I was seriously rationing my sips. After we had finished the food, the waiter came by with the water jug and slopped water into the glasses, spilling a large portion over the table and onto my (by then thankfully empty) plate.
When the waiter came with the much-needed water, our plates were already empty and we were clearly finished. But then he departed and left our empty plates in front of us for another ten minutes or so. After he finally cleared them away, there was another somewhat long wait for the check. When that arrived, we noticed he had charged us for the cafe au lait that never arrived. We had to verbally flag him down (awkward in a small restaurant) to get that changed; he was very apologetic, saying "I wish you'd told me and I'd have brought it" (well, we wish you had just brought it!), and returning shortly with the amended total.
I put down a $20 bill--the place is cash only, another bummer-- and tried in vain to get change for several minutes. All the while, mind you, the waiter is rushing up and down, back and forth across the small space-- it's hard to go unnoticed in such a tiny restaurant, so I'm not sure why it consistently took so long to get his attention. When I finally did get him close enough to ask for change, he returned-- with change for the entire bill, including the cafe au lait. At this point I almost yelled across the restaurant to keep him from leaving so he could correct the mistake. Again apologetic, he returned with the correct change, and as he put it on the table, he said something to the effect of, "Man, I'm really screwing you guys today, aren't I?" Um, yes.
So, after an hour and fifteen minutes or so, we finally emerged onto the street. I wonder: had someone called in sick that day or was the restaurant always manned by only one person? Even with a small number of tables, providing quality service while trying to do EVERYTHING (take orders, bring water, make coffee, pour orange juice, deliver food, tally the bill, make change, clear plates... the list goes on and on) is impossible, as was clearly demonstrated yesterday. The waiter was certainly trying, but his top-speed movements through the small restaurant only added a harried atmosphere to what should be a relaxing brunch. It's too bad, really; the food at Nook was pretty solid, and it's a surprisingly good value. But even so, I would definitely not return, nor would I recommend Nook to anyone seeking a brunch spot in Hell's Kitchen. So, for the very good bread, decent salad, and value for money, I give Nook two out of five Offset Spatulas. It's a pity so many spatulas had to be deducted for service.


(N.B.: Thanks to the astute comments of several readers, I'll now diligently provide location information for all my posts so it's easier for you to find the places. Not that you necessarily want to find Nook, but, you know, for the future...)
Nook
746 9th Ave
Between 50th and 51st Streets
Thursday, June 19, 2008
And it's GOOOOOOOD!!!
Well, not entirely empty. There were three people behind the counter, but really nothing else. There aren't any chairs or stools or even counters to lean on, so you've definitely gotta take your icy to go. That was cool; I was eager to get home. The only really notable aspect of the decor, behind the copious amounts of swag (t-shirts and such) pinned up for sale on the walls, was the enormous graffiti-style mural. Very... edgy?
NYC Icy offers two kinds of icies: regular icy (like sorbet) and cream icy (like sherbet or light gelato). The lovely people behind the counter explained that everything is homemade and they don't use any artificial flavors (great, although I've got nothing AGAINST artificial flavors per se...). The icies are also lower in fat and cholesterol than traditional ice cream. They happily offered samples, and I tried the hazelnut chip and the PB Reese's Pieces cream icies. Of the two, I went with the hazelnut: first of all, I love hazelnut, and second of all, the peanut butter flavor didn't go as well with the light texture of the icy.
The hazelnut icy tasted of pure hazelnuts and sweet milk. Not cream-- not the heaviness of cream-- but the lightness of delicious milk. The texture was airy and smooth, punctuated by chunks of dark chocolate. It melted a little as I walked home with it, adding to the lovely textural sensation.
I had ordered a small cream icy, which the menu says costs $3 (compared to $2.50 for the regular icy)-- but they only charged me $2.50. And even though the cup looks small, it's a lot of icy-- I almost struggled to finish the entire thing. But I did, of course, and I was left feeling satisfied but not weighed down at all, just entirely happy with the experience.
If you can't tell by now, I really like NYC Icy. The people were friendly, the price was right, and the product was delicious. I can easily see myself trying every flavor this summer... and going broke in the process (oops). I'd encourage you to go and try NYC Icy for yourself-- in a world filled with Pinkberries and Tasti Ds, NYC Icy has something special to offer.
Wednesday, June 18, 2008
NYC Icy is OPEN!
Five Napkin Burger: A first look
So-- on to the review, such as it is. I had plans to meet a friend from high school there for dinner, but she got stuck at work and bailed. I then cycled through my entire roster of possible dining companions, and somewhat unsurprisingly nobody was available for a last-minute dinner. So, as the time ticked down to the wire, I finally said, screw it, I'm going on my own. So I did.
I arrived shortly after 6-- the time they opened-- and requested a table for one (sniffle). They didn't bat an eye and led me to a two-top near the back of the restaurant. The place is pretty-- exposed ductwork on the ceiling, bare lightbulbs hanging decoratively. There were two large chalkboards covered with random doodles on the back walls, which was somewhat weird. But the space was certainly appealing and inviting, a little loud but backed up with a nice soundtrack of pop hits verging on "da club" status.
The table was set with a condiment caddy (ketchup/mustard), glasses, and flatware-- no salt and pepper, though, which could have come in handy with the bread. The server handed me the menu, and I looked it over. There was a small selection of wines by the glass and a larger selection of beers; I ordered a glass of sauvignon blanc for $7 while I perused the rest of the menu. Below is photo documentation of the menu, so you can take a look for yourself:
There are a few things to note about the menu. First of all, I wasn't hugely impressed with their non-burger selection (yes, I know, it's a BURGER joint, and I'm a VEGETARIAN. I get it). Second of all, the place was expensive-- burgers hovered around $15, dinner salads around $18 (why??). Third of all, there was a large selection of maki rolls that they were pushing pretty hard-- the waitress even came to ask if there were "a maki roll I'd like to start with." Um, no. Is this a sushi place or a burger place? It seemed really out of place, frankly.
As I decided what to order, my glass of sauvignon blanc arrived. They brought an empty glass with a small carafe and then poured a bit into the glass- nice touch. The wine was tasty but far too warm-- pretty much room temperature. But I still enjoyed it. Unfortunately, the wine arrived before the water; I had to ask for water to fill my glass, but once I did the waitress brought the pitcher ASAP and the water was kept topped up throughout the dinner.
I placed my order and waited for a few moments for the bread. Soon, a basket with one large slice of bread arrived, along with a dish of a couple hunks of butter. I had just reached for a bit of bread when my entree arrived-- whoops. Opening night timing issues...
I decided to have some bread first. I took a bite and got a very strong note of honey, which mellowed out to a nice wheat flavor. The crust of the slice was chewy but nice, with a good dusting of cornmeal on the bottom crust. The butter was a bit too cold and a bit too tasteless-- it wasn't salted but it wasn't sweet cream, either, so it was basically just industrial butter. Oh well; it served its purpose.
After a bit of bread, I tackled my entree: Vietnamese vegetable summer rolls. My first impression upon receiving the dish was that it was small. Very small. My second impression, upon picking up one of the halves, was that the dish was COLD-- clearly straight out of the fridge. I guess that's okay, but they could have let it warm up a bit while pacing the meal a bit better. I dunked the half in the accompanying sauce, which was very salty and tasted mostly of soy sauce. A bite revealed that the rolls consisted of vermicelli, carrots, lettuce, and scallions. Overall, it was okay-- definitely didn't taste bad by any means, but didn't blow me away either. But again: order summer rolls at a burger joint and you get what's coming to you, right?
Needless to say, it didn't take long for me to finish this dish. After I was done, the hovering waitstaff cleared the plate; the waitress asked if I wanted more bread, which I declined, and she attempted to clear the butter dish as well, but I asked for that to be left (as I was still tackling the remainder of the huge bread slice with the rest of my wine). About a minute later, a busboy came to clear the butter dish, so I asked him to leave it too. As I munched the rest of my bread and butter, the waitress came back to ask if I wanted to hear the desserts. I was still sort of on dinner, but instead of being an asshole, I said sure, and she rattled off the list of desserts on offer. They seemed to skew very homemade-American: brownie sundae, chocolate blackout cake, cheesecake, rootbeer float, strawberry rhubarb pie. Nothing bowled me over, so I passed, content to snack on bread and finish the rest of my wine.
The waitress brought the bill promptly after I was finished; it came rolled up in a drinking glass, which was a cute touch. In total, my summer rolls and glass of wine came to about $15-- not too bad at all, although not a cheap price for a small amount of food, either, and if I hadn't ordered the cheapest thing on the menu (cringe) it would have been significantly more than that. I was content when I left, pretty full and not too much lighter in the wallet. By the time I gathered up my things, the restaurant was almost full-- pretty good for a first night!
So, my overall impressions? Well, there were certainly service issues to be worked out: the waitress seemed almost painfully unsure of herself, though she was very nice and obliging, and the meal wasn't paced quite right. And in general the food seemed a bit expensive for what it was (again, I ordered VERRRY carefully). But-- and I'll repeat this one more time-- I didn't get a burger. I don't think you can fully evaluate Five Napkin Burger without getting a burger, or at least going with someone who gets one. Therefore, at this point I'll refrain from awarding any spatulas. I'll return shortly with a burger-eater, perhaps try something new, and report back with a full-fledged spatula rating.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Veggie disappointment at Zen Palate
We walked into the restaurant and it was...weird. There's a small, drab front area with a few tables crammed along the edges of the room around the front desk area, as if as an afterthought. The hostess asked if we wanted to sit in the dining room, we said yes, and she said we should walk down the hall. A bit of confusion ensued, but finally we found the hall she was talking about-- a long, dingy hallway that passed the kitchen and the bathroom, terminated in a swinging door, and finally opened up into the "dining room" by the back host's stand. We asked for a table for two and were seated immediately. The back dining room was also pretty depressing-- rather dark, not much decor... nothing great.
As we looked over the menu, the couple at the two-top next to us (our tables were VERY close together) called over the waiter and asked, "Where is the tofu in this dish?" The (very genial and friendly, it must be noted) waiter pointed to a dumpling and explained that THAT was the tofu, that it was seasoned and ground up, etc. etc. The couple was not amused, and, declaring "We'd like to see the menu again; we'll need more protein," promptly ordered another round of food. While they did ultimately like their second go-round, this didn't bode too well for our upcoming meal.
We placed our order and I got up to use the bathroom. By the time I returned about three minutes later, the food had already arrived. Wow. BD had ordered the grilled sesame tofu salad, which came with a large amount of tofu atop a mound of watercress, all accentuated by cherry tomatoes and fried rice noodles. It actually looked really good, but it was problematic to eat-- the pieces of watercress were huge and covered in splash-prone dressing. BD gave up on the chopsticks and asked for a fork and knife, but even with the help of the gauchly non-Asian implements, this wasn't easy eating. Once he got it down, though, BD liked the salad.
I had had that salad before, so I went with a more unconventional choice, the Kale and seaweed salad. It was, well, exactly what it purported to be: a mound of seaweed atop a mound of kale, with a small handful of silken tofu dices over to the side. There was a small dish of ginger/soy dressing on the side, which provided the only real flavor of the salad; I asked for an extra dish because the paltry amount they provided was not nearly enough for this formidable mound of plant matter. All in all, this salad was exceedingly, almost excruciatingly bland. There was a lot of it for a relatively small price, but that's not always a good thing.
I really want to like Zen Palate. I do. But the 9th avenue location is just so creepily drab, I'd really only use it for take-out, and for me to do take-out the food has to be really top notch. It's not. It was a good value-- each of our salads was only $7.50 for a large amount of food, so I'll give one spatula for that. And I have to give them one spatula just for keeping the vegetarian concept alive (and it IS really difficult to make really good all-veggie food. Difficult, but not impossible). But that's really all I can do. So, Zen Palate, here are your two somewhat dubious Offset Spatulas... do with them what you will.

Find me on Midtown Lunch today!
http://midtownlunch.com/blog/2008/06/17/profile-midtown-luncher-janine/
Monday, June 16, 2008
A red velvet delight from Buttercup Bake Shop
B brought me the cupcake on Friday, but I didn't get around to indulging until Sunday night. By the time I eased it out of its paper bag, it was a wee bit squished. No matter. I pressed on.
I cut this little baby in half. The cake was a lovely maroon color with a tender, small crumb. The frosting had that delectable sugary crust on the outside, which I love so well.
The cake had a very, very light taste-- mainly just sweet cake, not really much chocolate. I think the cocoa that I sensed was more due to power of suggestion than to any real chocolate flavor. The only real problem was that the cake was a little stale around the edges-- but I stress that this was my fault for not eating it right away, not any intrinsic problem with the cupcake.
The frosting was the real star in this equation. Incredibly sweet (probably too sweet for some, but that's how I like it) and with a slight cream-cheese kick at the end, this frosting is to die for. Plus, the little red sugar granule garnishes added both crunch and flavor-- a pleasant surprise, as usually cupcake garnishes add nothing but visual interest.
Needless to say, I finished this cupcake almost faster than I could take pictures of it. It's not huge (we're not talking Crumbs here), so when I was done I didn't feel sick, or even really all that satisfied. But this is a good, good cupcake. I can confidently say it's one of the best red velvets in the city, so I'd encourage you to go to Buttercup and pick one up (or, if you're feeling gluttonous, pick up a huge slice of their red velvet cake). Even if it sits around for a few days, it'll still deliver solid cupcake satisfaction.
Five Napkin Burger Watch IV!
Sunday, June 15, 2008
Ring molds and steamed spring rolls at Holy Basil
We were led to a small table in a separate porch-like room by the windows. Our table was tiny, clearly a table for two with an extra place setting (that extra would be me). Regardless, we settled in and looked over the drink menu. S and B ordered a "pitcher" (note: in Holy Basil parlance, pitcher = bottle) of sparkling apple cider, one of the drinks on special for the spring. The waitress brought over the bottle and a pair of champagne flutes. I took a small sip, and it was bubbly, appley, and somewhat beery. Interesting.
We then began our agonizing quest to decide what to order. MAJOR props to Holy Basil: they have a separate vegetarian menu, with both appetizer and entree selections. There were several dishes I was considering, including a noodle soup, but I decided against ordering soup on a hot and sticky day and went with the standard Thai salad. When the waitress came to take our orders, all went smoothly until she reached S, at which point the following exchange ensued:
S: ...and can I get a side of sticky rice?
Waitress: Your dish comes with white rice.
S: Can I get sticky rice instead?
Waitress: No, you have to order that separately.
S: You can't replace the white rice with sticky rice?
Waitress: No, it costs extra.
S: Okay, I'd like a side of sticky rice.
Right. Anyway, the order was placed and our appetizer course arrived shortly. (The chopsticks arrived shortly after that... we had to ask for them specially. Hmm.) We had chosen the steamed vegetable spring rolls to share, mostly because they puzzled us. Steamed spring rolls? I assumed they were going to be like dumplings, but we asked the waitress and she confirmed that they were, indeed, simply steamed spring rolls. We thought they'd be gross. So we ordered them.
Well, the steamed spring rolls were exactly what they purported to be. The filling was delicious, but they would certainly have been better with a dumpling skin rather than the slightly spongy steamed spring roll exterior. But the plating was beautiful, and even though the dish was pretty damn small (two bites per person, really), it was a tasty appetizer.
We paused after the appetizer course while our entrees were prepared. When the runners arrived with the food, the plates of rice arrived first: one plate of sticky, one plate of plain. While the sticky rice arrived garnished with a lettuce leaf, the dish of white rice was entirely unadorned, thus creating the most hilarious food picture I have yet taken:
S's dish arrived next. It was some sort of meat (I think duck but I'm not actually entirely sure...) with string beans. The interesting part of this plate was the garnish. It looked like hair. Not sure what it was (S guessed it was some sort of fish thing). But it was funny.
B had ordered a beef dish with basil leaves. It arrived in a meticulously arranged cylinder, and frankly it looked paltry. But once he went at it with his chopsticks, it actually revealed itself to be a decent-sized plate of food. Cool.
And then my salad arrived. After the disappointing size of the appetizer, which I had been counting on to be a good part of my meal, I was visibly (and audibly) distressed when the salad arrived and was TINY. It had a similar presentation to B's entree (ring molds, anyone?), and it just looked...so...small.
But once I started deconstructing it, there was actually a decent amount of salad in there. The greens, bean sprouts, tomato pieces, and bits of chopped tofu were all held in place but a ring of cucumber. The yummy peanut dressing was actually on the bottom, anchoring the salad to the plate, which is creative but it means that until you mess all the stuff around, you're basically eating undressed veggies. In any case, it was a yummy salad, but let's just say that I was so far from full after this dinner was done that B and I made a beeline for Ben & Jerry's to top off my stomach.
Holy Basil has good food and beautiful presentations, but I think it's a wee bit overpriced. There are so many decent and cheap Thai places in the city, I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to dine at Holy Basil, although if you're in the East Village and want something a bit more upscale than your local Thai dive, HB will fit the bill. I'll let the overall level of fun we had at this dinner eclipse the price point and the minor service glitches and award HB a solid four out of five Offset Spatulas.
More Fro-Yo Chronicles: Very Berry
Very Berry is the cheapest Pinkberry-eque frozen yogurt I've encountered so far (a small cup of original with no toppings was $2.98). They also have more flavors than standard-- yesterday, they had strawberry and blueberry in addition to the standard Green Tea and original. I tasted the strawberry, which tasted very much like strawberry Light 'n Fit yogurt, and the blueberry, which tasted overwhelmingly artificial to me. It's also worth noting that they, like Red Mango, charge extra for flavors. So I went with a small cup of the original flavor.
Very Berry has a pronounced real-yogurt tang and a creamy flavor. The texture is almost foamy (really, like frozen foam), but it's still substantial. They also give you a large quantity for a small, which I appreciate.
WTF Report: Hibernia
Hibernia looks vaguely Irish-ish and definitely more downscale than Epoque (which was a little bit cooler-than-thou), more along the sports bar vein than see-and-be-seen. No menu or anything up. No sign that they just opened, no word on whether it's owned by the same people as Epoque. They seem to have kept roughly the same setup as Epoque, with maybe a new paint job and a change in furniture. Overall...curious.
Random Post Alert: Mike's Hard Lemonade taste-off
Mike's Hard Lemonade (Regular): Very lemony and sweet. Essence of Crystal Light.
Mike's Hard Lime: Tangy. Some thought it tasted more lemony than the plain lemon flavor; others thought it evoked Mountain Dew.
Mike's Hard Cranberry: Very strong cranberry aroma, but flavor less present on the palate. More balanced than some other options.
Mike's Hard Pomegranate: The sweetest of the bunch. Straight up-sugar; notes of Crystal Light Raspberry Ice.
Mike's Hard Light Lemonade: Strong artificial-sugar tang; less alcoholic than already laughable regular Mike's. Not a crowd favorite ("Mike's Hard Soap?").
As you might expect, no spatulas were awarded during the course of this tasting.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Lovely atmosphere and okay food at Bryant Park Grill
We had a reservation, and I went inside and checked in at the hostess stand. She asked whether we wanted to sit inside or out; I said out, and she sent me outside to the outdoor host's stand. There was a huge line, and I wasn't sure whether I was supposed to join the line or cut in front, so I just stood awkwardly to the side for a while until the host noticed me, I made puzzled comments, and then they seated our table. Phew.
We looked at the menu and quickly placed our order. A bread basket arrived shortly after, offering three kinds of bread: a mixed grain roll, a ciabatta-like white roll, and a cheesy breadstick. I chose the mixed grain roll to start and dug out a dollop of softened butter from the ramekin. The roll had promise, but unfortunately the exterior was soft rather than crisp, so it was unpleasantly reminiscent of the rolls you get in airplane meals, you know? The interior of the roll was a bit better, but I still wasn't satisfied. I moved on to try one of the ciabattas. It turns out that these were flecked with pieces of olives, which usually aren't good but in this case weren't bad. The bread was crisp and really chewy. Together, the two rolls provided a suitable carb fix for the time being.
Our entrees arrived shortly after. L had ordered crabcakes; they came as two reasonably sized, golden-brown cakes with some lettuce in between. She finished most but not all of them; I didn't get a read on how good the dish was, but it looked pretty standard.
S ordered the chicken Caesar salad. It was enormous, with almost an entire chicken on the side. This got points for good value, and S enjoyed the taste.
I ordered the avocado, shittake mushroom and spring onion salad, except I replaced the avocado with celeraic. While substitution came as requested, I asked for the dressing on the side, which they didn't do. The salad was small, and while the menu description said it was on a bed of arugula, it was actually mostly frisee (boo). The dressing was very flavorful, and the mushrooms were good but in very small quantity. I don't recall encountering any spring onions. Overall, this salad was very...meh. And as I finished it, there was a pool of oil at the bottom. Not so appealing.
Bryant Park Grill is a lovely, lovely place to eat if it's a nice day. When we were there, the sun was shining, people were happy to be out of the office-- and some days that's all you need. Food-wise, the Bryant Park Grill (at least the outside part) could step up its game a little bit-- but still, I wouldn't hesitate to go back if the opportunity presented itself. For that, I award BPG three out of five offset spatulas.


Friday, June 13, 2008
Five Napkin Burger watch III!
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Good friends and fruit tarts from Ceci-Cela
And, of course, I got the extreme privilege of consuming said fruit tart this evening after dinner. Oh man, was it good. The raspberries and blueberries on top were fresh and coated in a jiggly blanket of sweet glaze. The base of the tart wasn't the usual tasteless pastry shell but rather an incredibly yummy, cinnamon-sugar-cookie like substance that crumbled into flaky layers when you bit into it. In the center, anchoring the fruit to the cookie, was a dollop of eggy pastry cream. The pastry-to-cream ratio definitely skewed towards the pastry, which was favorable, as in this case the cinnamon cookie really took the cake, as it were. Ahem. Anyway, what follows is a fruit-tart-porn gallery, for your enjoyment. If you're ever near Ceci-Celi, pick one of these up-- it'll be sure to bring a smile to your face!
Hot day, cool food at DB Bistro Moderne
The day was a scorcher, but as a cold person I was grateful to note that the inside of DB Bistro was cool, at least compared to the temperature outside, but not frigidly cold. As all women know, one of the perils of summer is wearing outdoors-appropriate clothing and then going inside and shivering until you get back in the sun. For some reason, guys don't seem to care about this-- they wear shorts in winter. What's up with that?
Anyway, DB Bistro was calm and peaceful inside. Immediately, as we were shown to the host's stand and then eventually to our table in the back, I could tell that the service here was top-tier: gracious, polite, and crisp. Once we were seated, our menus were brought promptly, and the waiter explained the specials. They were really pushing their special gazpacho appetizer, which seemed, um, odd, especially in the middle of a tomato-borne salmonella outbreak. While cool soup would have been refreshing, both L and I steered clear of the gazpacho and place our orders.
An appealing cone of bread with a dish of softened butter arrived at our table. There were two kinds: two crisp ciabatta-like white rolls and slices of a seasoned loaf. There were a few recognizable spices-- rosemary or sage, perhaps? A hint of garlic?-- and what looked like olives, but the bread definitely lacked an overpowering olive flavor (a good thing). I had two slices of the seasoned bread, which was delicious.
Once we had eaten our carbs and the review had been delivered, our food arrived. L had ordered the orecchiette pasta with lamb ragu and goat cheese. It looked delicious, with lovely pretty colors and an appealing dollop of creamy goat cheese on top. It also seemed to be the perfect portion-- not skimpy, but not a challenge to finish, either. L pronounced it delicious, and though I didn't have a taste, I have to agree. On principle.
I ordered the Upstate Farms mesclun salad with baby vegetables. This was one of the most precious salads I've ever encountered. There were baby carrots, peapods, and a few other baby veggies of unidentifiable natures, all of which were heart-meltingly cute. There was a light vinaigrette and a hint of sauce on the lettuce leaves, which contained mesclun greens and the occasional frisee or herb. This salad was tasty, not too small, and delicious. Mmmm-hmmm.
The dessert was a show-stopper. When it arrived, L announced that it "looked like a sleeping alien." Right. More importantly, though, it tasted incredible. There was a scoop of sorbet and a squiggle of citrus whipped cream on top of two light-as-air meringue crisps sandwiching a stick of citrusy pastry cream. Everything was delicious and truly light. I wish it had been dinnertime and I had been hungry for dessert-- as it was, I had a tiny bite of each of the elements, but I never really like having dessert in the middle of the day, so I didn't indulge thoroughly. But if I ever get the chance to return to DB Bistro, I will be sure to save room for a dessert or three.





Monday, June 9, 2008
Gossip and salad at Cafe Gitane
I arrived first and grabbed a table for four. Easing myself onto the sticky pleather seat, I laid my head back and absorbed some of the air conditioning. The place was very small and packed tightly with tables; there was a small bar/open kitchen taking up a quarter of the space. The whole restaurant was really not much bigger than an average-sized bedroom.
The girls arrived and we placed our orders. S ordered a glass of watermelon juice; SL and A decided to split a dish of baked eggs, and SL supplemented with a citron-presse. Our food arrived relatively quickly, and although it didn't look quite as spectacular as the enormous mounds of couscous landing on tables all around us, it was solidly appealing.
I'm not entirely sure what baked eggs are (well, I assume they're eggs, you know, baked), but this looked sort of like a casserole. It came with a few slices of baguette on the side, and between them, SL and A finished the dish. Even though I'm not a vegan (I looooove my dairy products), I'm not the biggest fan of eggs straight up, so I didn't take a bite. It looked tasty, though.
I ordered an arugula salad, which came with baby beets, bits of granny smith apple, crostini smeared with goat cheese, and a chopped-walnut-and-olive salad sprinkled on top. I asked for the dressing on the side, which came as requested, but the walnut-and-olive mixture provided enough moisture to the salad that I didn't need the dressing at all. The arugula was large leaves, not baby arugula-- that's not necessarily good or bad, just unusual, I guess. The beets were nicely cooked and sweet, and the crostini were tasty with their creamy and tangy goat cheese. The only failure of the salad were the bits of apple-- they were really mealy and tasteless (eew). Also, by the end, when I was down to a melange of olive, apple, and walnut, the flavor combination was sort of weird and overly salty. But overall, an interesting salad, certainly.
I'll admit that I don't usually like places like Cafe Gitane. They're a bit too pretentious for my liking, and I never really feel comfortable there. Cafe Gitane was a good place to catch up with friends, which is what we were using it for, even though it was a bit too loud to talk comfortably. The food was solid but not incredible, although the desserts that I spotted looked pretty good. Would I return? Probably not. But it was a pleasant (and blissfully air-conditioned) hour while it lasted. For not being crappy, but not being especially great, I'll give Cafe Gitane a solid 2 Offset Spatulas.

Sunday, June 8, 2008
A top-notch black & white cookie at Glaser's
Glaser's is a dusty and somewhat unassuming old German bakery. The inside is utilitarian: a pastry case with the goods for sale, and that's pretty much it. There were some delicious-looking cupcakes and chocolate-covered goodies, but I was here on a mission.
And my mission, as I chose to accept it, was to purchase the quote-unquote "best" b&w in the city. The women working the counter were chatting to another customer, whom they seemed to know well, and seemed mildly perturbed by my presence. Nonetheless, I got what I came for, and it was cheap, too: $1.50 (not including the subway fare it took to get there...).
I emerged into the swealtering heat, ready to see what the buzz was all about.
But first, a telltale sign that we were on the right track:
Saturday, June 7, 2008
The Fro-Yo chronicles continue: Red Mango
The inside is festively decorated in red and white, and there was loud, thumping music playing (apparently Red Mango = da club). The fro-yo and toppings are in the back, under two flatscreen TVs displaying the pricing options.
As is all frozen yogurt in Manhattan, Red Mango isn't cheap, but it's less expensive than some of the competitors. A small cup of original with no toppings, which is what I got, was $3.20. All the toppings are $1 each, and the green tea flavor also adds a dollar (which seems a little ridiculous to me, but I don't like green tea much, so I never really have to weigh flavor vs. price).
They have the usual suspects in terms of toppings: a full array of fruit and some less-healthy options (chocolate chips, cereal, etc.), but as I said, I skipped the toppings and went straight for the good stuff.
Unlike Yolato, a small here really is small. It's enough for a small snack, but if you're really hungry, then Red Mango won't do it (or I guess you'll just have to fork over the funds for a bigger size).
In my opinion, Red Mango has Pinkberry beaten texturally. There's definitely that icy element, which is Pinkberry's signature, but Red Mango is really creamy as well. As you can see from the pictures, it holds its swirl ridges well, so it's not going to melt into a soupy mess (see also: Tasti D). That's key in a good cup of frozen yogurt.
Red Mango also has a really good flavor. There's a sharp, tangy yogurty bite, but it's cool and refreshing. There are claims of "Live and Active Yogurt Cultures" all over the packaging and everything, but frankly, I don't know if I buy that. This stuff is really good, but I'm not sure how healthy it truly is for you.
Again, like all the other fro-yo joints (Pinkberry, Tasti D, BerryWild, etc. etc. etc.), if you're jonesing for some serious ice cream, Red Mango isn't going to get the job done. But if you want a refreshing mid-afternoon snack, head to the Red. If the choice presented itself, I'd definitely take it over Pinkberry.
Five Napkin Burger Watch II!...and a side of Lasanga
I also passed by the new Lasagna Ristorante on 9th Avenue between 52nd and 53rd. They're having their "Grand Opening," and there was a guy outside handing out fliers and delivering a spiel to passersby. He said Lasagna is one of 3 locations, it's family-owned, and all the food is cooked to order. I took a menu and it seems moderately priced but nothing too special. We'll see how it does in the area.
Tenth Avenue plywood action!
Their sign is up, true, and they've gone out of their way to plywood the front windows to block the view inside (in this case, plywood = garbage bags and paper). But of course, having no shame, I ducked down to peek through the hole at the bottom. It was so bright outside I couldn't get any good pictures, unfortunately, but you could see that the counter is up in the back. But the floor was still covered with cement buckets and other construction implements, the way it has been for several weeks if not months by now. NYC Icy, when are you coming? I want some creatively flavored frozen treats!
But, to counter the Icy disappointment, on the way I noted a new restaurant coming in a block up.
A new outpost of Wondee Siam, with an electric orange border and an "opening soon" sign, seems actually to be opening soon. The tables are in, and the funky light fixtures are up. One of the owners was inside and smiled at me as I peeked in. It's sort of weird I haven't noticed this place before (it definitely takes more than a couple days to get a restaurant to this stage), but Wondee looks truly ready to go. It could potentially be a nice addition to this area of 10th-- I hold out hope!
A leisurely drink at Winebar wine bar
I ordered a Chenin Blanc from France. It was lightly sweet and really tasty, served at the perfect temperature. At $8/glass, it was the cheapest glass on the menu, but it still was delightful. I savored it over the course of the evening. Also worth noting: as befitting a wine bar, Winebar has really good glassware, and the type of glass changes with the type of wine you order, as it should. Extra points!
S ordered a glass of red (don't remember what kind...), and it also came in a lovely glass. She seemed content with her choice.
There was a small and somewhat pricey menu of food, which we skipped. About halfway through the hour-and-a-half that we were there, though, I asked if they had a bread basket or something of the sort-- basically, I just wanted something to munch with the wine, as I've found drinking wine without eating anything is not a good thing to do. This request elicited an inordinate amount of befuddlement, frankly; they didn't have a bread basket, and we could order crostini... but I didn't want crostini with a bunch of dips, I just wanted some plain bread, so I just said forget it. The waiter said he'd see what they could do.
He returned with a plate of focaccia cubes. They were seasoned and redolent of olive oil, and they were pretty good. I actually ate the entire plate of them... addictive little bites that they were. And when the bill came, I was somewhat glad that I HAD polished them off-- they charged me $4 for this plate of bread. Even though, as S pointed out, that's significantly less than anything else on the menu, that's still pretty bush league. If you're a wine bar, you should serve SOMETHING complimentary for customers to eat while drinking (nuts? olives? uh, bread?). Otherwise you're just encouraging bad situations.
So my recommendation: Winebar is a cool place to grab a glass of wine with a friend. It's a bit on the expensive side, and I wouldn't necessarily go out of my way to return; there are a lot of other wine bars in the city that I'd like to try first. But if you do go, bring a snack with you. Yummy as the focaccia was, it wasn't worth $4.
Friday, June 6, 2008
Stick to the beer at House of Brews
Tasting flight of beer
Chicken fingers. Breaded in a panko-like crumby breading, not battered. This fact did not please this dish's orderer.

Appetizer sampler, with mozzarella sticks, loaded skins, and chicken wings. The mozz sticks were standard and were finished off; the wings and skins were left on the plate.

Fries-- really pretty to look at, not so good to eat. Whatever was sprinkled on top of them (parsley?) added visual interest but no flavor. They were fried so the outside was cooked but the inside was dry. There was no salt. And they were cold. Yech.

Shepherd's pie. I think this was one of the winners of the bunch-- this got polished off, one of the few dishes to earn that distinction.

Quesadilla-- shameful. I think maybe one of these triangles was consumed.

Chickpea burger-- deemed "not that good." About half was eaten; I tackled the side salad, very heavy on the chopped raw onion (why??).

Mussels with sausage. Okay, maybe we shouldn't have ordered this at a beer bar, but they're good at BXL, so why not? Almost this entire dish went untouched.

Some sort of other sandwich, with more of the pitiful fries. Not sure what this was, but I think it was eaten relatively happily.
I'm not even going to put forth a food rating for House of Brews (you pretty much know what it would be). All I can say is, in the end, when you go to House of Brews, that's what you should get. Drop yourself in a sticky booth, grab a greasy menu, skip the food and order a beer. Save your hunger for any of innumerable other decent restaurants along restaurant row.
Wednesday, June 4, 2008
Oh Amy, I came and you sold me a cupcake
I went for their black and white cupcake, a chocoalte cake with white buttercream frosting. You can't go wrong. My cupcake journey follows:
Team bonding at Aroma Kitchen & Wine Bar
One thing to note about Aroma is that it is tiny. The bar takes up almost all of the dining room-- you have to squeeze past it to get to the two or three tables (or the bathroom) in the back, and the handful of tables in front are dwarfed by the presence of the bar. That said, the space is endearing-- rustically decorated, with wine bottles lining the walls. Our table, in the front, was near enough to the open front door that we had a pleasant breeze with us the entire evening. Speaking as a person who is cold all the time, it was an incredibly welcome break from the over-chilled restaurants crowding this city.
My teammate M and I arrived first, so we had the privilege of ordering the wine. The Aroma wine list is hilarious, chock full of descriptions like "barnyard, wet forest, prunes" and "cassis, blackberry, bacon...happily feminine."
I asked for a bread basket, and while they brought it the rest of our party arrived. While they settled in, I gobbled down a piece of of the white loaf. It had a great stretchy crumb with large air bubbles and a crackly crust. There was a small dish of olives in olive oil to accompany the bread; the olives were fairly generic and the olive oil was serviceable but not mind-blowing. The bread itself, though, carried this course through-- I only wish there were some salt on the table to add to the olive oil. When we finished this small dish, they brought more bread without us asking-- well done.
We placed our orders, opting to begin with a mixture of personal appetizers and apps for the table. We drank our wine and nibbled on bread, and after a bit of a wait the appetizers emerged. Two members of our party went with the special soup of the day (part of a VERY lengthy recitation of specials for the evening), a mixture of pureed cauliflower and turnip. I think it was turnip-- it might have been parsnip; for some reason those two veggies are stored in the same part of my brain. Either way, the soup's orderers pronounced it delicious.
My manager, A, ordered gnocchi. It looked like baked mac & cheese and came in a delightful shallow ramekin. It contained sausage, white truffle oil, and a few cheeses, and the crispy crust looked especially good.
As for me, well, I ordered a salad (obviously). On the menu, it's "Satur Farms organic mesclun, beets, radishes, ricotta salata, basil, mint," but I ordered it without radishes (not my favorite). A requested on my behalf to replace the radishes with "extra everything else," and our waiter agreed to "supersize" my salad. All in good fun, except the salad was pretty small when it arrived. It was basically some mixed greens with a few shavings of ricotta salata on top. I didn't detect much basil, and only at the very end did I get a bite of mint-- a good thing, because too much mint in a salad is a weird thing.
L got the pistachio creme brulee. It looked good; he said it was fine, not extraordinary but not average. It had the nice crackly crust that's key to all good creme brulees, though, definitely a positive sign. It also came with a small thin cookie sticking rakishly out of the creme.
A ordered the ice cream and sorbet sampler. We tried to decipher what the flavors were; I nailed down the sorbets (raspberry and cantaloupe) but couldn't figure out the last flavor was. The waiter claimed it was vanilla but it most certainly wasn't-- of that, at least, I am sure. The scoops came perched on top of the same type of thin florentine cookies, which were good but would have been tastier if they were thicker.
B ordered the vanilla bread pudding. It looked good enough, and he ate about half of it. While I wisely remembered that eating an entire order of heavy and rich bread pudding is generally not a good idea for me, I did try a bite of this after he was finished. The best way I can describe this dessert is... gross. It tasted moldy. Truly. It tasted as though the bread were moldy. Eesh. Mind you, I don't think the bread actually WAS moldy, but it tasted... off.




Five Napkin Burger watch!
Lunch, dinner and late night... that's promising
It's "An American Bar & Grill." Sure, cool.
A peek inside-- looks like a bar at the back; diner-style tiles on the walls
And lots and lots of chairs.
You'll definitely hear more once this place opens...
Monday, June 2, 2008
Leaving hungry from Taste of Times Square
Sunday, June 1, 2008
An excellent adventure back in time at One if by Land
Apparently, OIBL is notorious for being THE site to propose marriage. One of people I work with went one night and witnessed two marriage proposals over the course of the evening. As such, we all placed our bets on how many proposals we'd see during the night. Since it was a lovely evening in early June, I put my chips on 2; J chose 1; and the bro, ever the pessimist, chose 0.
My brother and I arrived first. The facade of the restaurant has no sign, just a large carriage-house door with a small placard revealing the number "17." It was approximately 113% humidity outside, so we didn't linger, but the precious entrance definitely did set us up for what we had in store.
Once you enter the restaurant, you're overwhelmed with the sense that this is, indeed, a "nice" restaurant in the traditional sense. There's dim lighting coming from grand chandeliers, white tablecloths and candles, yellow roses on every available surface, and a man playing a grand piano near the front of the bar. (Note: near the very end of the evening, the pianist played "Groovy Kind of Love," one of the songs my dad used to sing to me when I was little. I think OIBL might get an extra spatula just for that.)
Since our party was incomplete, the hostess directed us toward the bar, where the bro and I sat for a few minutes before J arrived. Once we had gathered ourselves together, we were led to our table, a large round four-top in the center of the front dining room. From our perch, we could see up to the mezzanine dining level and out to the external garden. There's really no way my descriptions could do this place justice-- from the colonial paintings on the walls to the exposed brick to the carefully composed and gently lighted ambiance, OIBL is gorgeous. It really does feel like the carriage house it once was (built in 1867 to be the carriage house for Aaron Burr, our waiter informed us).
The traditional menu option is a prix fixe-- 3 courses for $75. Since they didn't have a vegetarian main course, I asked for two veggie appetizers, and not only did the waiter oblige, but he offered to price them a la carte. That ended up being very useful, cutting the cost of my meal by about $20 or so. Once we had placed our orders, we were off.
First up: bread. Instead of a bread basket, OIBL upped the ante with a separate bread GUY. This man, after my own heart, approached the table with a tray of five different selections of bread: foccacia, olive bread, 7 grain roll, dinner roll, and peasant white slice. Both J and my brother chose the dinner roll, while I went with the seven grain. The triangles of sweet butter that accompanied the bread were the perfect spreadable consistency. The 7 grain roll was dense and studded with oats and nuts. As I told my companions, if I ate the entire roll I would be both full and happy-- it was incredibly good but definitely filling. I ate about a quarter of it; this evening was all about rationing my appetite. As for the dinner rolls, when the bread man made his second visit to the table, J chose the dinner roll again, and when my bro chose the 7 grain to branch out a bit, he said the dinner roll was better. Again, I'd be happy with a bread and butter tasting menu, so the meal was off to a great start.
Soon the appetizers arrived. My brother chose the buffalo rib eye, small slices of rare buffalo on a bed of ramps sprinkled with slices of pear that looked like french fries at first glance. The plate was not only visually appealing but, according to its consumer, "off the charts" in flavor. The bro awarded the sauce on this dish alone six Offset Spatulas.
J went with the sauteed gulf shrimp with carrot and hearts of palm. The large, pink shrimp rested on top of dollops of orange and yellow sauces; with the orange from the strips of fried carrot, the dish looked pleasingly tropical. While I obviously did not try any of the shrimp (or any of the meat/fish dishes, for that matter), I asked for a taste of the fried carrot, having just had fried carrot a week earlier. It was scrumptious-- it looked like bacon but tasted like a sweet potato chip. When J left a few extra strips over on his plate, I quickly stole them away. With the plate cleared of shrimp and veggies, J pronounced the dish "magic."
For my appetizer, I ordered the salad of spring vegetable crudite. This lovely dish came as a bed of piquillo cake, which tasted like a red-peppery polenta, crowned by paper-thin shavings of various spring vegetables and accompanied by a dot of roasted red pepper puree and few demure curls of mont enebro cheese. As I tried to refrain from shoveling it in my face at an unladylike pace, I attempted to record what veggies were present. I counted frisee, radish, carrot, zucchini, asparagus, and ramps before I had eaten everything and had to stop counting. This was an incredibly creative and tasty take on the typical vegetable salad. The piquillo cake was especially delightful, and I very much appreciated the care that was obviously taken in putting the dish together (also evidenced by the somewhat alarming number of fingerprints surrounding the composition on the white plate...).
And with that, the appetizers were done. The plates were cleared and we had a few moments to reflect on how good the food was-- and I'll reiterate at this point, it was seriously, seriously good. We were well on our way to a top-ten meal contender.
But first-- the entrees. J ordered the American loin of lamb, which came with eggplant, goat cheese foam, and some sort of caviar essence. This plate was also creatively composed, and it came with a large eggplant chip as a garnish. J devoured the lamb, pronouncing it phenomenal. As J and my brother traded bites of each other's dishes, the bro asked who the chef at OIBL is. J replied, quite aptly, "God."
For my entree, I ordered another vegetarian appetizer selection, the wild mushroom and parmesan crumble. When they brought this dish, I thought they had made a mistake-- it looked like dessert. But no; while it was surrounded by a thin ring of pastry crust, the "ice cream" on top was actually a scoop of chantilly cream, and the crumbles below the cream were parmesan, not brown sugar. As I took forkfuls of crunchy, savory parmesan, creamy, light chantilly and the savory mushroom mixture inside, I couldn't get enough. I slowed down sufficiently to offer bites to J and the bro, but by the time it occurred to me to try to incorporate the dots of reduced balsamic vinegar around the edges, the food was gone.
Wow. Time for a brief breather. Our minds were blown-- and while our waiter told us we could linger as long as we wanted before dessert, we had hit our stride and plowed on. While we were all absurdly full at this point, we had been watching mouth-watering sweet creations emerging from the kitchen all evening long, so we couldn't turn down dessert. We placed our orders and tried to rearrange the contents of our stomachs to make room.
The desserts came out a few minutes later. The bro ordered the chocolate tart with salted caramel ice cream. The tart had a molten interior and was incredibly, incredibly rich. He could only manage a few bites; I took a taste, and J gamely tried to pick up the rest, but we still ended up leaving about half the tart on the plate.
J had ordered the macadamia baklava. While this was probably the least visually appealing dish we had over the course of the day, I had several bites of it and it was very good. The phyllo was crispy and redolent of hazelnuts, and the honey mousse or nougat on the bottom was light and sweet. I do love honey, so I thought this was a great dessert. As a table we ended up polishing this one off.
Personally, I ordered a dish of ice cream-- not creative, I know, but I wanted to end the evening without my stomach exploding (and also knew I'd have a bunch of tastes of the boys' desserts as well). I had two scoops of vanilla and one of salted caramel. The vanilla was good but standard; the salted caramel was an interesting flavor-- very salty on the foretaste, but it mellowed into a nice caramel flavor as it melted in your mouth.
Just to make things interesting, they also brought a complimentary plate of petit fours. Ohhhh boy. At this point it was just a challenge-- one which I (probably foolishly) took up eagerly. There was a bed of peanut brittle (extravagantly good-- as the bro said, he would have been happy with an order of peanut brittle for dessert), a chocolate chip cookie, a sugar cookie, a fruit gel (or "fruit snack," in my brother's parlance), a brownie bite, and a small fruit financier. While the bro took care of the fruit snack, I tucked away the financier, chocolate chip cookie, half the brownie, half the sugar cookie, and most of the peanut brittle... all in combination with my ice cream. Now, these were small bites, but come to think of it I did eat a striking amount of dessert last night.
So-- there we were. We had eaten probably all we could have eaten; if there were more courses, we likely would have given up. As we sat back, fat and happy, in our chairs, refusing the offers of coffee or tea and waiting for the check to arrive, we gave up in our quest for sighting marriage proposals-- the one young couple in a table near us had already left, sans engagement ring (thus, the brother wins this particular betting go-round...). It's probably clear by now, but this was a truly special, incredible meal. The food was spectacular; the service added much to the equation-- and they didn't skip a beat with our "unconventional" party (every single other table in the restaurant was occupied by couples, or combinations of couples). And the carriage house atmosphere, which could have crossed the border into cheesy, instead felt like a welcome Colonial respite from the humidity and activity outside. While due to budgetary constraints OIBL is not a restaurant I would return to on a regular basis, it's a perfect special-occasion place. And on that note, I'd encourage you not to reserve OIBL for romance. The three of us had a great time celebrating my graduation, and the food was just as good without a diamond ring at the end. For providing a lovely, memorable evening, I hereby make OIBL my first Manhattan five-OS restaurant.








