Showing posts with label Berkshires. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Berkshires. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

LWF&D returns to the country

Over the weekend of the 4th, I ducked out of the city for a brief jaunt to the Berkshires to see the parents. After I arrived on Saturday afternoon, Mom and Dad headed out to the James Taylor concert, so I was left to fend for myself for dinner (and dessert). Off to Great Barrington I went.

First up, a visit to Napa, which I'd been to once last year. I took a seat at the bar and ordered their beet and goat cheese salad. It was quite good: a layer of thinly-sliced, tender red beets covered in a lightly dressed tangle of mesclun, all accompanied by two small pucks of fried goat cheese. The most remarkable part of this salad was actually the mesclun-- it had flavor. Bitter, sharp flavor. Guess that's what real fresh lettuce can do!

Vivid salad

After dinner, I ducked across the street to SoCo Creamery for some of the best ice cream in the world. I've been craving their cookies & cream ice cream ever since the last time I had it, and a small portion (which is huge) this time didn't disappoint. It's pure, fresh, sweet cream, packed with huge chunks of Oreos-- pretty much the perfect combination. SoCo is neck and neck with Thomas Sweet in my own personal Best Ice Cream rankings. Which are highly prestigious, of course.

Heavenly

To round out my Berkshire food tour, the next day Dad and I stopped into the newest sensation in town: Barrington Bites, a tiny little cupcake kiosk tucked into a kitchen supply store on Railroad Street. It's provisioned and staffed by one woman-- Wendy Weinberg, as the business card states-- and it traffics exclusively in mini cupcakes. Dad and I shared a "blue velvet," each getting one bite of the cream-cheese-frosting-covered red velvet knockoff. The frosting here was quite good, definitely tangy and not too sweet. The cake was very moist, which is sometimes hard to pull off when making mini cupcakes (they tend to dry out very quickly in the oven), but it didn't taste at all like cocoa. It seemed pretty much like an oil-based plain vanilla cake, but regardless, it was a suitable vehicle for the delicious frosting.

It's patriotic, on account of the birth of our nation

And there you have it. Less than 48 hours in the country, and I was back in the sweltering, 98-degree city. Back to reality!

Napa Wine Bar and Eatery
293 Main Street, Great Barrington, MA
413-528-4311

SoCo Creamery
5 Railroad Street, Great Barrington, MA
413-528-9420

Barrington Bites
33 Railroad Street, Great Barrington, MA
413-528-0660

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

I'm back! And I bring you ice cream

Dearest readers, I have been shamefully MIA recently-- the last few weeks were a bit rough both health-wise and work-wise, but I'm slowly getting back on track and should be back with reports on the four meals currently sitting in my camera very soon. But in the meantime, I bring you a brief report on the Best Ice Cream I've Had In A Long, Long Time.

I eat ice cream relatively frequently, but usually when I have it I go for frozen yogurt or light ice cream or some watered-down version of the real thing. But every now and then, I get a taste of the true life-- not sorbet, sherbet, granita, or even gelato (which is delicious, don't get me wrong, just not as rich as ice cream), but real, true, honest-to-goodness ice cream. And it's like when you've switched completely to diet soda and then have a sip of full-sugar Sprite-- it tastes impossibly rich and sweet and decadent. Anyway, this past weekend, when AV and I escaped the city for a quick weekend away in Western Massachusetts, I tasted the Best Ice Cream, certainly in a Long, Long Time, but possibly Ever.

It was at the SoCo Creamery in Great Barrington, a place I've been to many, many times throughout my life, even when it was called Bev's in its previous incarnation several years ago. We went after dinner on Saturday night (report on that to come...), and I got my usual soft serve twist with rainbow sprinkles, while AV got a cup of cookies & cream with sprinkles. I tried a taste of his ice cream. Fast forward 16 hours and we were there again, eating ice cream in the middle of the day in an effort to stem the rising out-of-control yearning I had for that cookies & cream. Sitting there, with my own small cup of the black and white ambrosia, I savored each indulgent spoonful. The cream was unbelieveably creamy-- like sticking your tongue directly into a bucket of fresh cream, much creamier even than whipped cream, which I eat regularly. And the big chunks of cookies were judiciously scattered about, taking a suitable backseat to the pure canvas of the cream. I didn't even bother with sprinkles.

Pure beauty

SoCo Creamery
5 Railroad Street, Great Barrington
413-528-9420

Monday, December 29, 2008

A Eulogy: R.I.P., Elm Court Inn

Life is fleeting, and in the short time we have on this Earth, restaurants come and go. We can only hope to experience the best while we and they are still around. But sometimes, sometimes you find one that's truly special, and you naively deny the restaurant life cycle, pretending that this particular delight will escape the typical restaurant fate and be around forever. And then-- when the inevitable comes-- the sadness is extra acute.

Such is the case with Elm Court Inn, the tiny restaurant in North Egrement, MA, which up until now held the coveted title of My Favorite Restaurant in the World. After my parents attempted to make New Year's Eve dinner reservations and encountered a disconnected phone line, we feared the worst-- and the sad fact was corroborated both visually and by a for-sale listing sealing the Inn's fate. The Elm Court had been around for so long... I don't know what happened. It just simply makes me sad.

So-- the world says goodbye to one of the finest restaurants I've ever encountered. If you'd like to read about what we'll never have again, click here and keep a box of tissues handy. And if you have a bunch of extra cash handy and would like to buy the Elm Court Inn and revive the restaurant with me, email me at lifewithfoodanddrink@gmail.com.

Until then, R.I.P. Elm Court Inn. You will be missed.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

A birthday celebration and top 10 meal at the Elm Court Inn

The time has come. This post is a report on the Elm Court Inn in North Egrement, my very favorite restaurant in the world. Before I start, I offer this disclaimer, which will become increasingly self-evident shortly: this is not an unbiased review. I've been going to the Elm Court since I was very young, and the proprietors and most of the waitstaff know our family. But it is a restaurant of the absolutely top caliber, and this time around I had three outsiders to corroborate that declaration.

View from the parking lot

Gorgeous gardens

The Elm Court is a delightfully adorable small country inn in the tiny town of North Egremont, Massachusetts. Our party arrived and immediately the hostess inquired whose birthday it was-- a sure tip-off that my mother had been arranging things behind the scenes. After the requisite birthday wishes were bestowed, we were led to our table, where I was greeted with my own personal menu. Yes, my mom had them print menus. Wow. Both hilarious and ridiculous in equal measure.

Yes, it says "Happy 23rd Birthday Janine" at the top. I can't explain.

Our waitress, a friend of the family, came over to offer the specials, which all sounded pretty delicious. We pondered the specials and the non-specials as the wine list arrived. I selected a California Sauvignon Blanc to start. It had a good aroma but was a tiny bit too oaky for my taste. After we finished that bottle, I chose the other kind of Sauvignon Blanc, which was better received-- it had a darker, golden color and a pure, clear taste.

Quivira Sauvignon Blanc, in an ice bath to stay cooool

As we were making our menu choices, the bread basket arrived. There were two kinds of bread on offer, a seeded multi-grain bread and a rosemary white with an intoxicating fragrance. The bread was warm and soft in its napkin-shrouded basket, and though it came with a bottle of olive oil for dipping, we requested good ol' butter (hey, this was not going to be a healthy meal... might as well go crazy). Both types of bread were incredibly good, fresh and high quality with good crust and satisfying chew. The butter was cold, but since butter is not standard for their bread basket (so they wouldn't necessarily have it out at room temp), we cannot fault them for that.

Multigrain on the left; rosemary on the right

The butter. I'll admit we artfully arranged the little pats before taking this picture.

After much agonizing (some of the specials sounded reallllly good), we finally placed our order and waited just the right amount of time for the appetizers to come. The first to arrive was S's selection, one of the specials: a strawberry soup. We all oohed and ahhed when we heard the dish on offer, and it arrived pretty much as had all expected: a strawberry...soup. With a dollop of whipped cream on top. S dug in; as she described, and as the taste I sniped from her corroborated, it tasted like a smoothie. Yum. I would gladly have had that for dessert. But more on that later...

Like melted strawberry ice cream

My dad got the French onion soup, one of the restaurant's specialties. When I was younger, I used to love this soup-- but since it's made with beef stock, the current vegetarian version of me can no longer indulge. But Dad reported that it was as good as ever.

Onion soup with gooey, caramelized, bubbling gruyere

Both SL and A got the porcini mushroom ravioli with sage butter. I tried a tiny taste, and these were powerfully good, with an intensely savory filling that screamed "umami." SL and A both sang the praises of this dish, and rightfully so.

Flecks of sage atop mushroom-stuffed parcels

Mom and I had gotten the Elm Court Inn House Salad. This is one of my favorite salads in the world; it's pretty basic, with mesclun, a few endive garnishes with cherry tomatoes, and a creamy herb dressing. The magic happens with the celeriac, which, unlike at the Swiss Hutte, was an assertive and ample tangle atop the greens. For some reason, maybe because this salad tastes like my childhood, it's just so good. I couldn't ask for anything more.

If there were another tomato peeking out, it would look like a rabbit

But, of course, we still had the entrees to come. After the appetizers were finished, we had a leisurely break between courses, during which we sipped our second bottle of wine and chatted as only four twenty-something girls and a set of parents can. But make no mistake-- when the entrees began to arrive, we were all business.

My dad had gotten the Weinerschnitzel, another one of the Elm Court's specialties. I also used to love the Weinerschnitzel, which makes the current vegetarian me cringe a little bit... but it was just so good, crispy with the thinnest piece of veal and a savory brown sauce that just completed the whole dish. I know what this tastes like, so I didn't have to get a full report from my dad-- only confirmation that it was as good as ever (it was). The Weinerschnitzel also comes with roesti potatoes, which are miles and miles better than the Swiss Hutte version.

Weinerschnitzel with a bit of roestis in the back

My mom ordered the soft-shell crabs. This was a fairly sizeable portion of pan-fried crab, and it was cris-crossed with a creamy sauce. My mom loves soft-shell crabs, and she really enjoyed this dish.

My dad said this looked like roadkill

All three other girls-- S, SL, and A-- ordered the rack of lamb. It was three hefty lamb portions, bone-in, accompanied by roestis (of course). Obviously, I didn't taste this, but the chorus of enraptured noises emanating from the three of them as they tucked in spoke for itself. Let me just say that as we rode home after the meal, stomachs distended, they were still reminiscing about this lamb.

Tender rack of lamb... with a rosemary feather in its cap

Entrees at the Elm Court are always accompanied by veggies for the table. This time it was zucchini, carrots, and fingerling potatoes. I cobbled together a bunch of these veggies-- cooked perfectly, of course, with a bit of butter to enhance the flavor but not enough to drown them-- as my entree, supplemented with a bit of roestis.

Glossy zucchini matchsticks

A dam of steamed carrots

Collectively, this was my entree

And even though that was a truly stunning entree course, the dinner was far from over. When the Elm Court appears in my dreams, it appears in dessert form. One particular dessert, in fact: The Almond Cookie Cup. Even though the Swiss Hutte has a cookie basket, the Elm Court version is playing in a different league. The cookie is crisp, thick, and tasty, with bits of almonds embedded in the almost fortune-cookie like texture. A boule of sweet vanilla ice cream sits under strawberries and raspberries, glossed with raspberry sauce and buried under whipped cream. And of course, this time, mine came with candles and the requisite off-key chorus of "happy birthday." I demolished this cookie cup and never looked back.

Birthday cookie cup!

SL and Mom both ordered the cookie cup, but with chocolate ice cream instead of vanilla and no whipped cream. It looks a little spare, but they both enjoyed it (as well they should).

The chocolate version... sans whipped cream

S ordered the Coupe Denmark, with is a dish of vanilla ice cream and a boat of chocolate sauce. She requested coffee ice cream instead, so in the end she basically had the most luxe mocha sundae imaginable. This chocolate sauce was thick and dark and had the unmistakable taste of real Swiss chocolate. When we were nearing the end of our cookie cups, SL requested an extra boat of chocolate sauce for us to dip our cookie remnants in. That was a good call.

This image will stay with me for a long, long time

The only non-winner of the evening was A's gingerbread. It was powerfully gingery, but I've never had gingerbread before so I'm not sure whether that's normal. There was a pool of something on the bottom-- A guessed it might be maple syrup, but she said she was trying to "avoid it." I think this dessert was just too intense, and it went unfinished. Oh well...

Gingerbread. Meh.

So in the end, gingerbread aside, we were full of food, wine, and good cheer. The Elm Court Inn is a truly special place, and this was pretty clearly the best birthday dinner I've ever had. It's always nice to have a place where the people know you (like Cheers, I guess), and the Elm Court always makes us feel like honored guests. And the food-- oh the food-- is incredible. I can't stress this enough-- if you're ever, ever in the Berkshires, go out of your way to go to the Elm Court. You will have a meal that will remain a pleasant memory for a long, long time. I believe it goes without saying that this is a five Offset Spatula place, but I'll make it official.



Elm Court Inn
Route 71, North Egremont, MA
413-528-0325

Friday, July 4, 2008

Yodeling for our food at the Swiss Hutte

On Thursday night my trusty girlfriends and I roadtripped up to the Berkshires. We managed to bypass most of the holiday weekend traffic, so we neared our destination in time for dinner. I called my parents, who had arrived earlier, to arrange a dinner meetup. Since I last visited the Berkshires, there are (apparently) several new restaurants in Great Barrington, the local town, so we decided to call one of those to get a reservation. To make a long story short, none of the new and almost none of the old places around had a 6-person reservation available, so we sucked it up and ended up at an old haunt, the Swiss Hutte.

So adorably New England

...Yet also so Swiss

The Swiss Hutte is located in the Catamount Ski Area just over the Massachusetts border in Hillsdale, NY. It's an adorable, quaint, New England-slash-Swiss-style restaurant, with a warren of rustic dining rooms and a gorgeous garden area in the back. We were led to a table near the windows and handed menus as we settled in. Each person got two menus-- a regular menu and a bar menu. As we hunkered down to the work of figuring out what to order, we started comparing dishes-- and soon realized that we all had different menus. As we traded menus around the table to try to see which ones were best, a waitress came over and tried to fix the situation. I distracted her by asking her what was in the Chef's Salad, and she rattled off the ingredients for the House Salad, saying it was topped with "Celery root, or, you know, cilantro." In one of my more dick moves, I couldn't help pointing out that celery root was in fact celeriac and not cilantro, and that I was actually curious about the what was in the chef's salad, not the house salad. Finally, she stammered, "I don't know, I'm not actually a waitress." Ooooookay. But she did say that she thought some of us had lunch menus, so she gathered up the lunch menus, brought someone else over, and had that person give us dinner menus. It ended up not really mattering, because most of the lunch dishes were on the bar menu anyway, and it was all pretty much the same stuff.

When the smoke cleared, we were left with these two menus

Our main waitress came over to recite the specials. And by recite I really mean recite-- I think there were about ten specials in total, each with a complex list of ingredients, and she made it all the way to the last dish without having to check her cheat sheet, which elicited a round of applause from us. Finally, menu fiasco behind us, we all placed our order, and the waitstaff receded into the distance.

Rolls, patterned butter, and...olives. Naturally.

Soon the bread basket arrived. It was a collection of white rolls with butter and a small dish of olives. I liked the olives-- nice touch, if a bit incongruous. The roll was soft but the crust held up-- it wasn't a crusty roll by any stretch of the imagination, but it also didn't descend into icky soft roll territory either. The butter, shaped into a ramekin and raked with a pattern on top, was very hard but good nonetheless. I ripped into a roll, being rather hungry, and was about four bites in when our appetizer course arrived.

Inside of a roll-- surprisingly good.

Most of the entrees at the Swiss Hutte come with house salads, so there were a few salads around the table. I had ordered a house salad with a side of veggies as my meal, and to my surprise the salad came out with the appetizers. No matter; that worked too. They put the dressing on the side, as requested. Overall this house salad was very, very standard, although the celeriac on top was yummy. I think celeriac is a severely underutilized vegetable, especially in salads.

Standard salad with dressing boat

We finished up our salads and the plates were cleared. So we talked. And talked. And....tallllkkkkeddddd. And soon we realized it had been about 45 minutes since our appetizers had come out, and we were all very hungry. We had just reached the point of asking the waitress where the food was ("it should be right out") when our entrees did, in fact, arrive.

S had ordered the pork chop, which came with a mound of frizzled onions on top. She thought it was cooked fairly well (although A, who took a taste, thought it was on the drier side). But she wished it had come with some sort of vegetable matter. It was literally just pork and onions.

Large slab of pork; fried onion blanket

A had ordered the pot au feu, a puff pastry with what amounted to chicken-pot-pie mixture inside. The plate came with the house vegetables around the edges. She liked the dish but remarked that the chicken was overcooked.

The chicken is wearing a hat

SL had ordered the duck, which was a huge piece of duck with some cherry compote on the side and some fresh fruit on top. She, too, thought the duck was overcooked, but at least it was a large portion.

Duck with vibrant fruit garnishes

Dad had ordered another kind of pork chop, and while he liked the vegetables on the side (especially the cabbage... more on that in a minute) and the accompanying roesti potatoes, he thought the pork itself was salty and overcooked.

Pork take II, with a bit of roestis and some cabbage in the back

Mom had ordered the salmon, which was a very small filet of salmon on top of some spinach. The spinach was really good and the salmon was cooked appropriately, but Mom remarked that the portion was truly tiny. It was as though the kitchen were running out of salmon and just tried cutting smaller portions to make it last. She said the portion size made her feel ripped off.

Tiny little salmon

I got the vegetable sampler (off-menu-- I just ordered the house veggies), which came with broccoli, carrots, and cabbage. This was very good-- the broccoli was tender but not limp, the carrots were sweet, and the cabbage had the signature sweet flavor of beets. There was a lot of butter in these veggies, so the plate was filling. I also had a small bit of roesti potatoes, a type of Swiss potato pancake, and they were delicious, as only deep-fried potatoes can be.

A trio of colorful veg

And... a grease bomb

All satiated, we had eaten until we could eat no more. Or at least most of us had. That left my mom and me to lead the dessert train, which we did. Another waitress came over and recited the desserts, another incredibly long list (PRINT MENUS!). Both my mom and I chose the cookie basket, mine with the standard vanilla ice cream, hers with chocolate.

The cookie basket came as an almond cookie shell with vanilla ice cream, berries, and whipped cream inside. On the side of the plate was a pool of berry and chocolate sauces swirled together. The cookie basket itself was nothing impressive-- it was really soft and pliable with a bland flavor and a lack of solid crunch. But the ice cream was delicious, and the sauces really added a lot of flavor. I wish there had been more berries, but the ones that were there were very fresh and tasty.

My vanilla cookie basket--and it comes with a long spoon! My favorite.

Chocolate cookie basket

Both cookie baskets disappeared as the rest of the diners nursed their food comas. Once dessert was done, we paid the sizeable bill and made our exit. Swiss Hutte is a place we've been to many times in the past, and I think its fatal flaw is that it's just not as good as our favorite Berkshires restaurant (where we'll be going next). It serves similar food-- roesti potatoes, weinerschnitzel, cookie cup desssert--and it's all just not as good. Today's service issues didn't help the Swiss Hutte cause too much, but I'm more than willing to chalk that up to it being a Berkshires and not an NYC restaurant. In the end, we had a great time, but for the prices the restaurant could certainly work on its game just a bit. So I'll give the Swiss Hutte a solid three Offset Spatulas for its atmosphere, the quality of some of the dishes, the good time we had, and the fact that we were happy because we were there on vacation.


Swiss Hutte
Route 23
Hillsdale, NY