Showing posts with label passionfruit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label passionfruit. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

LWF&D experiences Nougatine... finally

Nougatine, the slightly more casual part of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's flagship Jean-Georges restaurant, has been on my list of places to go pretty much since I moved to NYC. Now that I'm imminently moving south to Philly, I wasted no time in checking it off my list once and for all, toting Mom along for a delightful dinner.

And delightful it was. We were a little underdressed, to be sure, but we could appreciate the relaxed decor, the friendly and professional servers, and the eye-catching open kitchen bustling with activity at the end of the room. My only room-related gripe was the table: It stood on a tapered pedestal that was thick at the bottom (kind of like a mushroom), which cut drastically into the table's foot room. Kind of a bizarre choice.

But once we got beyond that, it was smooth sailing. One of the greatest things about Nougatine, I discovered, was that they offer wine in half (3oz) pours as well as full pours, which meant I could try two different kinds of wine! I started with a half pour of Domaine Carneros bubbly, which was fantastic, and finished up with a superlative Torrontes that was aromatic, crisp, and pretty darn delicious. Also, notably, for some reason they offer Cristal by the glass (and half glass). Huh.

Bubbles

Two half glasses = more than 1 glass. Yay!

To accompany the wine (and club soda, for Mom), we started with bread. Though the butter was cold and hard to spread, the bread was delicious, with a slight sourdough tang and an irresistibly stretchy inside.

And they give you two pieces at once!

Oh, and there was an amuse-bouche as well. A shot of warm carrot soup was surprisingly yummy; the accompanying rye toast was pretty standard, but it certainly got the job done.

Dollhouse food

To start, Mom went completely rogue and ordered the artichoke with mustard mayonnaise. Crazy town! After a steep but rapid learning curve in terms of how to eat it, she declared her love for the dish. I sense a long and happy artichoke-laden future for her.

The 'choke!

On to the entrees. Mine was warm asparagus topped with mixed mushrooms and a vinaigrette. Though there were only four thick spears (a bit paltry, in my opinion, for an $11 dish), all the ingredients were top-notch and remarkably flavorful. I particularly loved the mushrooms, which were actually the best part of the dish for me.

Lots of flavor, little portion

Mom chose the red snapper, with asparagus, shiitakes, and sesame vinaigrette. It was as satisfying as she expected, with perfectly-cooked fish sporting a crisp crust and a flavorful, Asian-inflected gingery sauce.

Really pretty fish

Of course, dessert was up next. The dessert menu was extensive and enticing, with everything from carrot cake to hazelnut dacquoise. It was hard to choose, but we did. In a startling turn of events, Mom chose the warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream. She loved it, but I thought it was surprisingly plain for a Jean-Georges dessert: pretty standard chocolate cake, above average vanilla ice cream, job done.

Mod chocolate cake

Mine, however, was transcendent, one of the best desserts I've had in a while, in fact. This was a coconut and mango-passion mint vacherin with exotic fruit chutney. A cylinder of mango-passion sorbet-ish substance sat atop a dish of crunchy meringue, all crowned with whipped meringue and crystallized mint and surrounded by a small-dice tropical fruit salad. The plate was painted with passion fruit puree, and a long stick of meringue provided both garnish and textural and visual interest. The dessert was an explosion of flavors, fresh and vibrant and sweet and satisfying. And the textural range was impressive, from soft and silken purees and whipped meringues to firm, toothsome fruit to crunchy baked meringue. In.Sane.Ly. Good.

Explosion of color and delight!

Oh, and to send us off were three tiny mignardises each: two pates de fruit of indeterminate flavor and a chocolate-covered orange jelly stick. These were ah-kay, nice sweet bites but nothing too special.

Freebies

All in all, though, Nougatine is quite a special place. The food is spectacular, and the service and overall experience are both pretty great as well. It's a four Offset Spatula destination that's perfect for special occasions and any time you want to feel, well, delighted.

Nougatine
1 Central Park West
212-299-3900

Friday, April 9, 2010

A little Mexican, for a change, at Hell's Kitchen

Saturday night, AV and I were both exhausted and looking for something low-key. We were headed out to our local wine bar, but on the way I suggested we pop into Hell's Kitchen to see if they had any tables available (they're usually booked up at prime times). Lo and behold, they had a delightful two-top right by the window. Score!

We settled into the table, perilously close to the diners next to us, and enjoyed the upbeat, wood-clad dining room while we waited for our food. AV sipped a beer. And when a runner came by with a plate of their warm, fresh cornbread, we dove in. This stuff is great-- not sweet, full of nice ground corn texture. With the flavorful spiced bean dip served alongside, it's hard not to fill up on the cornbread alone.

Warm wedges of delight

But there were entrees to come! AV chose the skirt steak enchiladas, with haricots verts, red rice, queso blanco, and salsa rioja. This was a huge amount of food, and after devouring the sides, he only made it through about half the enchiladas before he was too full to go on. He thought the dish was quite good overall, and it was a good value for the $20 price tag.

A whole mess 'o stuff

My choice was the organic mesclun salad, with port-poached beets, goat cheese toasts, and a passionfruit vinaigrette. Rarely do I feel that a salad dressing absolutely makes a salad, but this was one of those admirable cases. The strong taste of fresh passionfruit enlivened all the vegetables and made the salad tangy and delectable. Without it, it would have been a completely ordinary beet-and-goat-cheese salad. With it, it was something else entirely.

Unassuming

We rarely eat Mexican food, so Hell's Kitchen was a nice treat. The food is surprisingly high quality, and while the place isn't cheap, you get what you pay for. I'm glad we went back-- it's a four Offset Spatula neighborhood joint that's off my radar but should be front and center.
679 Ninth Avenue, between 46th and 47th Streets
212-977-1588