Testing the waters at Zigolini's

On Saturday night, the bro and I voyaged across avenues and down streets to check out the latest entrant to our 'hood, Zigolini's Pizza Bar (which I captured as it was preparing to open). When we got there, the front of the restaurant was open to the warm night, and there was a couple at one of the two-tops in front and a couple occupying the communal table that ran down the long, narrow space. The tables were marble; the chairs, black; the whole effect was sleek and borderline stark.

But the service was warm. Our friendly server brought us menus and water; we ordered quickly and chatted to fill the time. Since we were seated close to the pizza oven, we could see the bro's pizza being made, and as soon as it popped out of the oven, it and my salad were hustled over.

First, the salad: for $10, it was somewhat small, and I'd actually say somewhat short on the promised ingredients. I ordered the Insalata di Capra, which is composed of watercress, bosc pear, goat cheese, and pistachio (my request for walnuts instead of pistachios was duly honored). The salad was mostly watercress, a bit overdressed; the few slivers of pear were ripe but so thin as to barely register on the taste scale. The goat cheese was a quarter-sized round that crowned the salad; tasty, but small. There were tiny bits of walnut scattered about, more for color than for taste. If there had simply been much more of the ingredients, this would have been a good salad, but as it was it wasn't anything to write home about.

Almost looks larger than it was

The bro had chosen the Prosciutto di Parma pizza, with mozzarella, prosciutto, fresh arugula, and shaved parmesan. Again, for $16, it was somewhat on the small side, but barring that it was pretty good. I tasted a bit of crust and it was chewy and on the salty side; not exactly Motorino, but a significant step up from your neighborhood slicery.

'Za, ham & cheese blanket

So that was it-- we were in, we were out. (Hey now...) We weren't bowled over, but we left pleasantly sated. Would I return? Sure. Should you go? If you like pizza, yes. Therefore, Zigolini's earns its three Offset Spatulas, honorable for a newcomer, with room to grow.

Zigolini's Pizza Bar
675A Ninth Avenue between 46th and 47th Streets
212-333-3900